Alber Elbez and Lavin’s head Menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver showed a sophisticated, desirable collection that served as a great reminder as to why Lanvin is the brand on everyone’s lips. Here is a house that is unafraid to bring play with ideas of sculpture and proportion to the regimented world of menswear. The jumpers and coats with exaggeratedly rounded shoulders and dropped sleeves are in no doubt experimental but looking past the showmanship of these designs, one can easily see how these details will trickle down to the mass market, don’t be surprised when you find yourself gravitating towards that strange bow shaped jacket come September. Indeed it is in something so simple, such as a rounded shoulder, that excites the most – so long have we been wearing structured shoulders, all angles and severity, that the idea of softening these lines can seem radical and fresh. The layering in the show equally showed that for winter 2012 the number one trend will certainly be a smart, well-cut suit with a sportswear puffa jacket on top, a trend that I for one can get behind.
RAF SIMONS
By now I’m sure we’re all aware of the brilliance of Raf Simons – from a small menswear label, truly do great empires grow. This season Simons presented a collection that harked back to a man’s defining years, yes his schooldays; with oversized knitted sweaters, knee length shorts and ties around a white collar, not to mention the fantastic little hats that I’m sure everyone will be clambering for come September. Showing such a direct-referential collection can sometimes be risky, but here the masterful Simons successfully managed to make dressing like an oversized twelve-year look new and exciting. Brilliant.
GIVENCHY
Givenchy has undoubtedly become the hottest ticket during menswear week, an achievement that proves just how ridiculously talented the designer Riccardo Tisci is. Here is a designer who can wow the critics with couture, Womenswear and Menswear too and single handily saving the house of Givenchy. This season Mr. Tisci alluded to past work, with a familiar star motif, bright reds and nylon black leggings – perhaps a bit self-referential for some, but for me this is a designer telling us exactly what he likes, and understanding that a man’s wardrobe doesn’t drastically alter every six months, but develops and evolves slowly. Whilst the biggest criticism of his Menswear is that his designs only work for the young and the rich, break this collection apart and you’ll find some amazing pieces suitable for anyone (well they’ll still probably have to be rich…). Also I have to give a quick shout-out to whoever casts his shows – once again, this was the best cast show of the week by far.
RICK OWENS
I don’t think I’m alone when every season come rain or shine my eyes scour the menswear shows for the perfect pair of trousers. You can feel that the designers too are in pursuit of this almost grail-like achievement – playing with shape, cut, dimensions, details. But it seems like this is no mean feat, over the years men have eager to experiment with new ideas in the hopes of finding the perfect cut – they’ve bound fabric tightly to their calves in the stampede of ‘the skinny’, they’ve dropped crotches, alluded to flares time and time again, they’ve worn leggings and mid-thigh shorts. At Rick Owens, the esteemed designer has answered all our questions and shown us what I consider the best trousers for Fall 2012. High-waisted with button details, slim fit to the ankle and in black of course – these are trousers to love!
BURBERRY PRORSUM
Burberry has shown over the past few seasons why they’re one of the most financially successfully fashion houses in the world at the moment, with orders climbing year on year – they make clothes that work in the real world. Luxurious and formal but with city-aware casualness and an attractive sense of effortlessness, this season Christopher Bailey brought use classic suits in non-classic finishes, think velvets in blue, all accessorised with that most English nessesity – the umbrella. What I enjoyed most about this collection was the layering of winter jackets on top of suits, its’ a look that replicates exactly how men over the world dress in their lives. All too often a suit is shown on the catwalk on it’s own, but the styling here nodded towards how Burberry presumes you the customer would actually dress.
Best of The Season – Menswear AW12 Roundup